Quick and dirty:
Worsted Weight yarn in your variety of flesh tone. Bits of worsted weight in blood tones.
Size 3 and size 6 knittingneedles (you may wish to go with size 5s, especially if your hands are small.)
Cast on 36 stitches on size 3 needles..
Work a K2 P2 rib for about an inch.
Change to size 6 needles, and work stockingette stitch for about 5 inches (or for almost as long as you want them)
Change back to size 3 needles, and work a K2 P2 rib for about half an inch.
Bind off all stitches in pattern.
Follow chart below to duplicate stitch the stigmata in place on each side
Sew up the sides, leaving a space for your thumb.
Enjoy the angst.
This sweater is a relatively painless way to ease into stranded knitting – with big chunks of two color knitting and fun patterns to learn. You could easily modify the pattern to use as few as two or as many as 8 different colors.
Photo credit [model: Sharon Hodges/photographer: Lisa Bowes]
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size 1X)
[C1] BrownSheep Nature Spun Sport [100% wool; 184yd/168m per 50g skein]; color: N56 Meadow Green ; 3 skeins[C1] BrownSheep Nature Spun Sport [100% wool; 184yd/168m per 50g skein]; color: N27S Monument Green; 4 skeins
[C2] BrownSheep Nature Spun Sport [100% wool; 184yd/168m per 50g skein]; color: N59S Butterfly Blue ; 4 skeins
1 set(s) US #5/3.75mm double-point needles
1 24 or 36 -inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
1 16 -inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
24 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
Cast on 238[252, 266, 280, 294, 308] stitches in MC. Place a marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the knitting.
Work in st st for 6 rounds.
Purl one round.
Knit 1 round
Add CC1. Begin chart A.
Repeat chart A 17[18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23] times around the body.
Work until body measures 11.5[11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5] inches high from the purl round.
On the next round, switch from CC1 to CC2, and begin charts B and C.
Knit chart B for 159[168, 178, 188, 196, 206] stitches. Place marker.
Knit chart C for 80[84, 88, 92, 98, 102] stitches. Place marker.
Continue for another 3.5 inches.
On the next round, knit 74[79, 85, 89, 93, 98] stitches, bind off 10 stitches, alternating colors each stitch to carry both colors through. Knit, following chart, to next marker.
Knit 35[37, 39, 41, 44, 46] stitches, bind off 10 stitches, alternating colors each stitch. Knit, following charts, to bound off stitches.
Place marker, cast on 7 stitches, alternating colors. Place marker. Knit to next set of bound off stitches, place marker, cast on 7 stitches, alternating colors. Place marker. The 7 stitches between the markers are your steek stitches.
Continue working charts and steek stitches for another 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 9] inches.
Shaping the neck
On the next round, knit 74 stitches and 7 steek stitches. Knit 45 stitches, BO 20 stitches, alternating colors each stitch. Continue knitting around the body, following the charts and the steek stitches.
When you reach the bound off neck stitches, place a marker, and cast on 7 steek stitches. Place another marker.
Continue working the charts and the steek stitches, decreasing 1 st every other round on each side of the neck for 2 inches.
BO all stitches.
Cut open neck and arm hole steeks. (I’ve found Eunny Jang’s tutorials on steeks to be an excellent resource. http://www.eunnyjang.com/knit/2006/01/steeking_chronicles_the_should.html)
Sew together shoulder seams.
Starting at the center back, using MC, and with right side facing you, pick up stitches for neckline, adjusting so that you will have a multiple of 4.
Work a k2, p2 rib for 1 inch, then BO in pattern.
Beginning at the bottom center of the arm hole, pick up 108[122, 122, 134, 134, 134] stitches with CC1. Place marker at beginning of round.
Add CC2 and work chart D for 2 inches.
On the next round, begin decreases. K1, k2tog, k to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1. Work decreases every other row until 44[48, 48, 48, 52, 52] stitches remain. Work even until sleeve measures 19 inches (or 1 inch less than desired length).
Change to MC and work k2, p2 rib for 1 inch.
BO in pattern.
Fold bottom hem up at the purl row, and tack in place with MC.Weave in all ends.
Size 7 DPNs
Purl 1 round.
Comfy, cute, what more do you want?
I used 1 skein (109 yards) of Wings, by Classic Elite, but any worsted weight yarn should do. The softer the better!
Size 5 DPNs or circular needles (I found this pattern worked well using two circular needles).
Row 2: P1, K9, P1
Row 3: P1, K2, YO, K1, sl1, K2tog, psso, K1, YO, K2, P1
Cast on 36 stitches, join, being careful not to twist stitches.
Work a K2, P2 rib until it measures 1 inch.
Right hand: Knit 20 stitches, work 11 stitches from Lace Panel Pattern, knit 5 stitches.
Left hand: Knit 5 stitches, work 11 stitches from Lace Panel Pattern, knit 20 stitches.
Work Lace Panel Pattern 3 times.
On the next round, follow the pattern as above. At the end of the round, turn your knitting to work flat.
Every odd row will be worked as noted above. Each even row will be worked as follows:
Right Hand: Sl 1, P4, K1, P9, K1, P20
Left Hand: Sl 1, P19, K1, P9, K1, P5
Work pattern 2 times, plus the first 5 rows. At the end of the 5th row, instead of turning to purl, continue knitting in the round, following the original pattern. You'll work two more rounds (Row 6 and Row 1 from the Lace Panel Pattern).
Switch back to the K2, P2 rib for 7 rounds, then bind off in pattern.
Weave in ends.
Take this sweater, for example. It'll be a cute little zippered vest for my co-worker, who has graciously agreed to be a model for my designs.
I know I did the math right, but apparently my counting wasn't correct, and I placed the sleeve holes incorrectly, making the back smaller than the front (it's knit in the round).
Ok, I thought to my self when I figured out that mistake. I'll just put a zipper in, instead of making a button panel, and that will work. Right.
When I laid the vest out for blocking, after I'd steeked the front, and put in a zipper, I just couldn't get it to lay out correctly.
So, finally I figured out that not only were the sleeve holes placed incorrectly towards the back, they were also not put in symmetrically. One sleeve is further back than the other.
I can (and will) fix this. It's an easy rip and replace/stitch the zipper, with a bit of cleaning up on the inside. But it should be easy.
Obviously I need to pay better attention in the future.
This is a great pattern to use up all that extra feltable yarn that I know you've got hanging around in your stash!
24" size 8 -10 circular needles
size 8-10 DPNs
To start: Divide your yarn into two groups, A and B. You can divide by color, value (light/darkness), warm and cool. The darker bag was divided into a green/blue group and a purple/grey group. The lighter bag was divided into a warm (reds/yellows/oranges) and a cool (blues/greens). Have fun, go wild! And, when in doubt, add more colors! (Though I think this bag would look great in just black and white.)If you are using a fingering weight yarn, make sure to knit everything double stranded!
Body: Pick any yarn from group A, and cast on 132 stitches. Place marker and join, being careful not to twist stitches. Knit two rounds, then add a yarn from group B and begin working chart. You will work through the chart 4 times, changing yarn as you feel like it. (I found that giving each color about 7-10 rows felt good for me. I also made sure that I didn't change both A and B yarns in the same row.)
After working the chart 4 times, drop the group B yarn, and knit 4 rounds in K2 P2 rib.
Handle: On the next round, knit 4, bind off 58, place 8 stitches on a holder, bind off 58, knit 4. Move stitches to DPNs and work an 8 stitch I-cord for about 16 inches. Work the final row back as a purl row, then attach the handle to the 8 stitches on the holder using a kitchener stitch.
Turn bag inside out and seam the bottom with mattress stitch. Sew in all ends.
I felted the bag by throwing it into the washer with a few towels and running it on the "warm/cold" setting. I've got a front loading machine, and just let it go through the whole cycle.
Stuff bag with plastic bags to shape it while it dries.
My mom was here last week, and with her company, I was able to knock out the shrug I'd started way back when. No pictures yet, but it's from Araucania's Atacama Nature Alpaca, in one of the green colorways. So perfect for cuddling up on the sofa to watch Lost.
Now I've got baby stuff to work on - including finishing up some items for a shower that starts in three and a half hours! Eeek!
More in the not too distant future, including the chart and pattern for Bagged.
This bag uses a chart from a most excellent book called Here Be Wyverns, by Nancy Spies. http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html
Knit 2 rounds in MC.
Round 3: Knit 25 stitches, bind off 20 stitches, knit 50 stitches, bind off 20 stitches, knit 25 stitches.
Round 4: Knit 25 stitches, cast on 20 stitches, knit 50 stitches, cast on 20 stitches, knit 25 stitches.
Rounds 5-9: Knit
Round 10: Purl
Rounds 11-14: Knit,
Bind off all stitches.
Fold handle fabric to the inside at the purl row, tacking it down with stitches.
Turn bag inside out, and seam the bottom with mattress stitch. Sew in all ends.
This bag needed to be run through the felting process twice. (Throw it in the washer with towels or jeans, wash on warm or hot/rinse on cold.) Stuff it with plastic bags or find something else to use as a "mold".
I also finished a pair of longies and am most of the way through a pair of soakers. They're a kind of fun way to work through some of my stash of worsted weight yarns. And won't babies look cute in a mish mash of color and yarn?
I just joined the Stash Knit Down group in Ravelry. The January (1/5-2/19) goal is to knit a mile of yarn. I think I can do that. I've finished about a skein today. Whee.
What a year it was. I can't believe how much I got done this year.
I dyed a whole lot of yarn this year. I'm guessing that I did at least 50 skeins, but it might be a significantly higher number. I sold a lot, but kept a bunch of the yarn for myself, because it's so fun to play with.
This fall I was on a definite hat kick. Looking over my photos, I can find pictures of at least 30 different hats. EEEEE. At some point I'll get the pictures all loaded up onto my flickr account. For that matter, I'll get my flickr account reasonably organized, too.
3/9/08 I have made a change to Chart B to accurately represent the pattern. I'm sorry for any inconveniences this may have caused!
Round 3: knit 33, bind off the next 20, knit 66, bind off 20, knit to end of round.
I've started two new bags this week, but am anticipating that I will have to start more projects as I wait for more yarn to arrive. Yarn that I haven't ordered yet. Yarn that will be ordered tomorrow.
I think I'll almost have enough of the two darker blues to finish the blue bag, but honestly, I think I'm going to end up a few rounds short. And if I order more, I'll have more choices for color of handle, though it will probably be brown.
I'm pleased with the variety of textures through pattern I have in the blue bag, and am looking forward to seeing the center motif surrounded by knitting.
The second bag, which I just started tonight, is going to run out of the medium green that makes up the bottom. That will probably happen within another repeat of the 20 row chart. (Why am I making excuses to buy more yarn? I should just write up the darned order now.) The chart is from Ann Feitelson's book, though I've changed the colors around, since I much prefer green and purple.
But I got a lot finished today. Finished off the body of my second bagged (top right), and was so eager to start the next bag (bottom right), that I made the decision to do the i-cord handle on my commuting time. Yeah, I knit in the car. Only at stoplights or when traffic is backed up to a full stop. Heck, I got a few rows done on Friday when something was going on ahead of me, and traffic was fully stopped for a few minutes.
(The bag on the left is my first "bagged", using yarn that I dyed.)
And I just sold my last few skeins of sock yarn. Obviously I need to make time to do some dyeing. Maybe next week?
Materials: Knitpicks Palette, 1 skein each of Bark (MC), Brindle Heather, Nutmeg, Twig, Salsa Heather, Fawn, Golden Heather, Tan, and Ivy.
Needles: 16 or 24 inch circular needles, size US 6, double point needles, size 6.
Gauge: 20 st/12 rows=4 inches, knit double stranded on size 6 needles.
Pattern: The whole hat is knit double stranded using two strands of the same color of yarn. Using MC, cast on 102 stitches on circular needles. Join, being careful not to twist, and work in stockinette stitch for 2 inches.
Knit one round of MC.Place marker, [K17, place marker] 5 times, k to end. 6 markers on needle.
Round 1: [k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog] 6 times.
Round 2: Knit
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 9 times, until there are 54 stitches remaining. Repeat round 1, switching to double point needles when needed, until there are 6 stitches left. Break yarn, and thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.
Rows 1 + 2: K1, *P7, K1* to end
Rows 3 + 4: K2, *P5, K3* P5, K2
Rows 5 + 6: K3, *P3, K5* P3, K3
Rows 7 + 8: K4, *P1, K7* P1, K4
Rows 9 +10: P1, *K7, P1* to end
Rows 11+12:P2, *K5, P3* K5, P2
Rows 13+14:P3, *K3, P5* K3, P3
Rows 15+16:P4, *K1, P7* K1, P4
I will post a picture as soon as I have a better sample.
Here is the divine Miss M's new skirt. I love the pink boucle and am glad there is some left over for other projects!
This one was done on the extra large loom, and I think it could be considered a size 6, since it's a little bit big around on her. I think the large loom could be considered anywhere from a 2-4, depending on length. (A 4 would certainly have to be longer than the one I made yesterday.)
I think it would be interesting to try shaping the top or making the top ribbed so that it's more fitted and sans drawstring. I suppose that doing a cuff (like is done on the hats) would work to that end, too.